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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The honour has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest shop securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary triumph.